I’ve never been to Mexico, and I’d like to change that. I’ve read the country contains more than 50 ecological zones, from mangrove swamps to forests to deserts to coasts. So when I think about visiting, it’s hard to know where to begin. The urban forests of Mexico City, mountains of Puebla, and deserts and coasts of Oaxaca and Jalisco are all so diverse.
Until I make my way over there, my tastebuds can guide me on a culinary journey at Siempre, J.B., the newest restaurant at UnCommons. Created by Ayya Hospitality Group (which also conceived the Mediterranean-inspired Pine Bistro in Southern Highlands and C&R Public House and Eatery at Town Square), the upscale-casual restaurant offers a range of appetizers, salads, seafood, grilled meats and cocktails inspired by the unique ingredients and recipes of different regions of Mexico.
“We are ready to take guests on a journey of Mexican dining unlike any other in the city,” says Ayya Hospitality Group partner Lowell Raven. “Through our extensive travels, generational recipes and collaboration with some of the brightest minds, we’re bringing to Las Vegas a labor of our love that showcases the passion and unbelievable possibilities of Mexican cuisine and cocktails.”
The menu covers a lot of ground, and is organized somewhat regionally. There’s an entire section for ceviche and crudo, “from the ocean” and “from the grill” items, and blended entrees.
Chef de cuisine Román Andrés, who has served as executive sous chef at the Black Sheep and sous chef at Alexxa’s at Paris, has dug into his trove of family recipes, sharing a mole poblano recipe, which shines on chicken with rice ($25) and enchiladas.
The salsa sampler ($15) proves that salsa can take many different forms—chile de arbol with pepitas, mango habanero, pickled tomato and tomatillo-avocado. And chunky guacamole ($10) is served in a stone mortar with pepitas.
Not every recipe follows tradition. Yellowtail crudo ($19) comes with cilantro-lime dressing and pico de gallo. The scallop and uni tostada ($21) presents thinly sliced raw scallops—enhanced with uni, caviar and seaweed—atop a traditional tostada shell.Branzino ($32) with cherry tomatoes, tomato puree, cilantro and potatoes, makes for a satisfying seafood entree. From the grill, carne asada ($52), made from an eight-ounce skirt steak, is presented on a flaming hot stone.
If you go to Siempre and don’t have at least one of the restaurant’s four aguas frescas, 14 creative cocktails or seven signature margaritas, you’re doing yourself a disservice. Fresh fruits and house-made syrups elevate these beverages with nuanced flavors and quality ingredients. And, per Ayya standards, they’re served at the right temperature in beautiful glassware.
Aguas frescas ($7) provide a base for many of the cocktails or are delicious on their own. The Jamaica agua fresca is bursting with floral, fruity notes, while horchata gives slightly sweet and cinammony refreshment.
Margaritas, on the rocks or blended, feature Dos Caras and Siempre’s aguas frescas. These margaritas are the only in the world to use a “special reserve blend” of Dos Caras mixed with Siempre reposado, aged for more than six months. I recommend the refreshing Hecho en Mexico ($15) made with cucumber, lime and mint.
For dessert, try the spiced carajillo ($15) a warming nightcap with Casamigos Reposado, Licor 43 espresso, cinnamon and allspice. With these comprehensive, full-flavored offerings throughout a 100-seat dining room, patio and 18-seat bar, Siempre, J.B. is poised to take diners on a dynamic culinary adventure.
SIEMPRE, J.B. 6887 Helen Toland St. #105, 702-665-6918, siemprejb.com. Daily, noon-11 p.m.
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